As I have said previously, around 40 years ago my Grandad would sometimes take me for a walk around the City of London on a Saturday morning. We would start in Finsbury and end sitting outside a pub near The tower of London me having my favourite pineapple juice (yuk but as a kid I loved it) and him having his one and only pint and a smoke of his pipe before getting a tube from The Monument back to Old Street. Although the London of 2013 is different from that of the 1970’s I am going to retrace one of our walks and hopefully see how little it has changed.
Part 1 route
I started as we always did leaving Kings Square in the Parish of St. Luke’s and the Borough of Islington, back then in the first 5 minutes we would pass 3 bomb sites many of these plots were not redeveloped until the 1980’s. The main difference I notice here is the lack of small shops having been replaced by offices.
A part from that the first part of the route is totally unchanged Goswell Road (the only Road in the City) passing Charterhouse on my right which started as a Carthusian priory in 1371 then turning right into Carthusian Street and there in front of me is Smithfield meat market, soon to be made into more offices I believe.
The market building is Victorian but the area as open fields has a history of markets, fairs but also executions of heretics and political opponents including William Wallace, Wat Tyler and many protectant religious reformers who were burnt at the stake.
Smithfield Meat Market
Walking though the Central Avenue I head towards Cloth Fair and St Bartholomew the great Church, the oldest surviving church in the City of London dating from 1123 and the first on my journey that I would later come to work on as a Journeyman stonemason.
St Bartholomew the Great
I cut through the Grave yard through the gate and back out to St. Bartholomew’s Hospital. The gate dates from the 13th century and is the only surviving part of the priory with the half timbered upper storey being 15th century, supposedly where Queen Mary sat and watched the protestant martyrs burn alive outside while drinking wine and eating chicken.
Gate back view from church
Gatehouse front view
Part 2 will be Smithfield to St. Paul’s